Fullcount started with an obsession for vintage denim, trying to gain a deep understanding of what was required to make a beautiful pair of jeans. The brand’s founder Mikiharu Tsujita started his journey by dismantling the iconic jeans he had collected through his teenage years and by analyzing every detail and construction technique right down to the make up of a singular thread.
Once a week he would travel to Kojima, Japan in search of a factory that could make his ideal jeans. Kojima had a history of manufacturing workwear and school uniforms, however their factories were not exactly capable of manufacturing quality denim garments. Selvedge power looms were almost entirely out of operation and the specific industrial sewing machines and craftsmen capable of using them were rare, even the cotton thread’s were hardly available as typically only black and white threads were kept in stock.
The focus was set on speed and efficiency as the industry boomed, therefore the slow and steady machines of yesteryear had collected dust and had been weeded out. For Mikiharu, it was necessary to reconstruct everything from selvedge fabrics and cotton threads to buttons and rivets. Thus he had to rebuild everything from scratch. Along the journey, their enthusiasm was gradually transmitted, and they were able to meet people who could cooperate in betting on big, unfounded dreams.
His dream of the sewing machines necessary to make his vision of quality Japanese jeans was finally realised in 1995 when Fullcount made a truly convincing Japanese jean. The Shinya Fabric Mill where Mikiharu’s dream came true, was started in 1951 with only a handful of selvedge power looms: today the Mills are still a family business housing more than 100 selvedge power looms of which Fullcount was able to secure a few.
Slowly, steadily, day in, day out, these same machines have loomed the same Fullcount fabrics for almost 30 years. These selvedge looms rely on the intuitions of the skilled craftsmen who have been watching over them, tweaking and caring for the machines as they are prone to fluctuation caused by temperature changes and humidity.
Maintaining the same, consistent fabric’s with the qualities we have come to know and love truly is a form of art. With the invention of man made fibres and plastics, the clothing industry shifted to polyester threads known for superior colour fastness, strength and resistance to break down. But at what cost?
Each pair of Fullcount jeans contains 12 different 100% cotton threads made from ultra-long Egyptian cotton staples. With durability being of utmost importance, sewing machines and even needles were custom made and adapted to enable the use of these heavy-duty cotton threads. It is the hands of Fullcount’s skilled craftsmen and women who create exquisite stitch lines using these custom machines, needles and threads. Zimbabwean cotton is renowned for its high quality amongst the cottons of the world. It is strong and durable cotton with a natural elasticity and softness which is the very embodiment of Fullcount’s spirit.
Their jeans are not just a barrier between our bodies and the elements. They are a second skin and are as unique as the individual wearing them. They change, adapt and grow as we do and are a reflection of the paths we chose, the moments we have experienced.
‘We believe in good jeans. This is what we do.’
Discover the first delivery of Fullcount's iconic styles in our shop and stay tuned for more!